Indonesia, Sulawesi, Tana Toraja, Agosto 2009
La morte per i Toraja non è un evento istantaneo. Solo the final burial away the spirit of the deceased from the house and village. The last day of the funeral, the fourth after the deceased had been celebrated in front of guests and honored with the killing of the buffalo, the body was finally buried. At this ceremony, not many are able to participate. We have had this good fortune, and doubly lucky, we were also able to attend a burial incredibly spectacular.
all started with a mass. Yes, just a mass with the priest and the cross on the coffin, because in fact, most think of Toraja is a Protestant Christian. The animistic rituals are perfectly superimposed to the new religion, and so the two faiths combine in an incredible mix. The closest relatives, the members of the village gathered around the coffin, covered with red cloth and flower petals. The priest officiating the Mass and then those who want to talk to these (I guess that tells something that has to do with the deceased, as would we). But when everything seems to be finished, here instead, it all begins ...
The coffin is hoisted on a chair, maybe a few pounds heavier, made of wood and the shape of a house. Is raised above the roof color, the same as those long and colorful houses. Then the men and boys, all dressed in black, grab the poles and begin transport.
In our case, the place of burial was some distance chilometri e per percorrerli abbiamo impiegato ore. Tutto intorno a noi il corteo cantava e ballava. Gli uomini bevevano vino di riso (una vera schifezza dal sapore di aceto) e nel frattempo facevano ballare e oscillare ovunque la portantina. Con vero e proprio impeto la facevano girare, urlando e ridendo. Ci sembrava di essere capitati in mezzo a un rituale folle, ma in realtà quegli uomini dovevano far allontanare lo spirito da casa, fargli perdere l'orientamento, in modo che non potesse più tornare indietro. Quello doveva essere il vero, ultimo addio: lo spirito ormai purificato dalla cerimonia funebre, doveva andarsene per sempre. Infatti i figli del defunto piangevano quasi silenziosi, nonostante gli anni fossero passati da quella che per noi sarebbe stata the death of their family.
During a long climb, the kids are refreshed like throw bottles of water which washes them fully open. The cortege then stopped in a clearing in the shade and greenery. Older women pulled off their hats equipment to prepare a mixture of gum leaves: some crushed green leaves, held in a special bag, stretched into a small mortar and then put the plants between the gum and lower lip sucking it with pleasure.
Food and drinks were offered to all present and even the inevitable cigarette.
Then the procession resumed to make his last effort. The last climb was so steep that we, without any weight to carry, could walk with difficulty. We came to a steep and high rock wall. There were openings in the wall. From the lowest of the boys leaned out holding a skull. They were family tombs. The lowest was opened to facilitate the ascent of the coffin up the hole higher. Have been at least 25 meters.
A long bamboo pole was leaning against the rock wall and a half naked man climbed to the top. Then another stood in the middle and the coffin began to be pulled up. It helped with ropes, but the effort of man was incredible. Without any pretext unless their feet clinging to the bamboo, the man grabbed and hoisted the coffin. From above, the other man pulled him to himself until, with a grimace of fatigue last long red coffin entered the splitting tool.
Now it was over. After real and forever.
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